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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more particular silanes, (b) one or more polysaccharides selected from anionic or nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, (c) one or more water-soluble mineral salts. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair in which the cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said fibers. Finally, the invention relates to the use of the above composition, for the treatment of keratinous fibers and in particular for the packaging and / or care of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
    公开号:FR3013592A1
    申请号:FR1361584
    申请日:2013-11-25
    公开日:2015-05-29
    发明作者:Marie-Cecile Degoul；Zhenhua Song
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] Cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular silane, at least one anionic and / or nonionic polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble mineral salt The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more particular silanes, one or more anionic and / or non-ionic polysaccharides. and ionic and one or more water-soluble mineral salts for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using said composition. Finally, the invention relates to the use of this composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair. The cosmetic compositions for treating keratinous fibers are generally applied to sensitized hair, that is to say hair which is generally damaged or weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and or mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, staining, discoloration, perms and / or straightening. To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known to introduce in the latter, cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents intended primarily to repair or limit the adverse or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or aggression that are suffered, more or less or less frequently, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair. For this purpose, it has already been proposed to use cosmetically active organic compounds such as cationic polymers and silicones as a conditioning agent, in cosmetic care compositions such as hair conditioners to give the hair some properties. satisfactory cosmetics, in particular shine, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and improved disentangling ability. However, the use of these compounds in cosmetic care and / or conditioning compositions does not provide hair with satisfactory and lasting styling properties. Indeed, these compositions generally provide styling effects, such as maintaining effects, body and / or discipline of the hair, which remain insufficient and tend to fade after washing the hair with a conventional shampoo. However, consumers are increasingly looking for care compositions that are not only able to condition the hair in a suitable manner, but also capable of providing satisfactory and lasting styling effects. In order to meet these requirements, compositions have been developed for the care and / or conditioning of the hair which comprise organic silicon compounds, such as alkoxysilanes, for example. These care compositions make it possible to condition the hair, in particular by providing them with a soft, clean and natural satisfying touch, while imparting marked and lasting styling effects. In particular, these compositions have proved particularly advantageous because they make it possible to facilitate the shaping of fine hair and to confer interesting styling effects on curly or curly hair, in particular by improving the design and control of loops. However, the compositions comprising alkoxysilanes often have the disadvantage of changing substantially over time under normal storage conditions, in particular in terms of their viscosity and their visual appearance. This results in a hazy visual appearance and / or unsatisfactory texture of the compositions, as well as a lower efficiency.
    [0002] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, in particular compositions intended for the care and / or conditioning of keratin fibers, which contain organic silicon compounds, and which do not have the drawbacks described above. The Applicant has now discovered that a composition comprising one or more organic silicon compounds chosen from particular silanes, one or more polysaccharides chosen from anionic and / or nonionic polysaccharides and one or more water-soluble mineral salts made it possible to solve the disadvantages. above mentioned. Indeed, it has been found that the incorporation of a combination of one or more particular polysaccharides and one or more water-soluble inorganic salts in a cosmetic composition comprising one or more organic silicon compounds chosen from particular silanes makes it possible to make these compositions stable in storage both at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at 45 ° C, in particular in terms of their visual appearance and their viscosity, and this also when these compositions comprise one or more surfactants. By "stable" in the sense of the present invention is meant that the visual appearance and the viscosity of these compositions do not change, or substantially not (generally less than 10% variation with respect to the viscosity at TO), during time in standard storage conditions, for example during the month or two months after their manufacture, at room temperature. Furthermore, it has also been found that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to confer good cosmetic properties on the hair. In particular, it makes it possible to facilitate the shaping of the hair, in particular of fine hair, and to confer improved styling effects, especially on the mass, the body and / or the discipline, in particular with curly hair, and this of sustainable way.
    [0003] The composition according to the invention also has conditioning properties, in particular it makes it possible to provide flexibility and smoothing to the hair, and to facilitate their disentangling. In addition, the composition according to the invention has good properties of use, such as a pleasant texture, allowing spreading and distribution on the easy hair. In addition, said composition may be advantageously transparent. As indicated above, it should be noted that the conditioning and shaping properties of the hair are particularly durable, and advantageously remanent to shampoos. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more silanes corresponding to the following formula I and / or their oligomers: R 1 Si (OR 2) z (R 3). (OH) y (I) in which: R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with a group chosen from the following groups: amine NH2 or NHR, R being a C1-C20 alkyl, preferably C1-C20 alkyl, C6 optionally substituted by a radical comprising a silicon atom, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C3o, -hydroxy, thiol-aryl or substituted or unsubstituted aryloxy, in particular substituted by an amino group or by a C1-C4 aminoalkyl group; R1 may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y designates an integer from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3. (b) one or more polysaccharides selected from anionic, nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, (c) one or more water-soluble inorganic salts. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, comprising the application on said fibers of the composition according to the invention. Finally, the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular for the packaging and / or care of keratin fibers, preferably hair.
    [0004] Other objects and features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. As explained above, the composition according to the invention comprises (a) one or more silanes corresponding to the following formula I and / or their oligomers: R 1 Si (OR 2) z (R 3). (OH) y (I) in which: R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with a group chosen from the following groups: amine NH2 or NHR, R being a C1-C6 alkyl preferably substituted with a radical comprising a silicon atom, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a substituted or unsubstituted C6-C3o-hydroxy-thiol-aryl or aryloxy aromatic, in particular substituted by an amino group or by a C1-aminoalkyl group; -C4; R1 may be interrupted by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y designates an integer from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3. By oligomer is meant the polymerization products of compounds of formula (I) having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms. Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably is the ethyl group. Preferably, R 3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
    [0005] Preferably, R 1 is an acyclic chain. Preferably the compound of formula I has only one silicon atom in its structure. Preferably z varies from 1 to 3. Even more preferentially, z is equal to 3, and therefore x = y = 0.
    [0006] Preferably, R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted by an NH 2 or NHR amine group, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl, preferably a C 1 -C 6 alkyl or a C 3 -C cycloalkyl radical. C40 or a C6-C30 aromatic.
    [0007] Preferably, the silane or silanes according to the invention are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane and N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane. 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxy silane, their oligomers and a mixture of these compounds, preferably from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane ( AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, their oligomers and a mixture of these compounds, and in particular the silane is chosen from 3 aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), its oligomers and a mixture of these compounds. According to a preferred embodiment, the silane or silanes are chosen from the following compounds of formula II: ## STR3 ## wherein the groups R, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl, linear or branched, Cl-C6 and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4. A particularly preferred silane according to this embodiment is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES). Such a compound is, for example, sold under the name Z-6011 Silane by the company Dow Corning. The silane or silanes used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.4% to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention also comprises (b) one or more polysaccharides chosen from anionic and nonionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.
    [0008] As polysaccharides according to the invention, there may be mentioned microbial, anionic or nonionic gums. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "microbial gums", substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms. The microbial gums may be chosen from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, Curdlar gums, xanthan gums, grifolane gums, lentinan gums, Schizophyllane gums, spirulinan and krestine gums. Scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii, gellan gums produced by Pseudomonas elodea or Sphingomonias, pullulan gums produced by Aureobacidium pullulens, Curdlar gums produced by faecalis-like alkaligenic Faecalis, and xanthan gums may be mentioned in particular. produced by many organisms including Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Leuconostoc dextrantum, grifolane gums produced by Grifola frondara, lentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, Schizophyllane gums produced by Schizophyllum commine, spirulinane gums produced by Spirulina sybsyla and gums of krestine produced by Coriates versicolor. It is also possible, in particular, to mention the xanthan gums produced by the bacterium xanthomonas campestri and the mutants and variants thereof. These xanthan gums generally have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000. Preferably, as anionic polysaccharides, xanthan gums and scleroglucan gums are used. Even more preferably, the xanthan gums are used. As polysaccharides according to the invention, mention may also be made of those chosen from glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as pea blond, tubers such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcellulos, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), and their mixtures. As anionic starches, mention may be made of carboxymethyl starch or starch phosphate.
    [0009] Preferred nonionic polysaccharides are starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives. Among the anionic polysaccharides, xanthan gum and scleroglucans are preferred.
    [0010] The polysaccharides according to the invention can be modified or unmodified. The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company Rhodia Chimie. The modified non-ionic guar gums are especially modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The level of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON. Among the celluloses, use is made in particular of hydroxyethyl celluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by AQUALON, CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG-10 by AMERCHOL. Preferably, the polysaccharide or polysaccharides used according to the invention are chosen from microbial gums, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives. In a particularly preferred manner, the polysaccharide used according to the invention is xanthan gum. The polysaccharide (s) may represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. As explained above, the composition according to the invention also comprises (c) one or more water-soluble mineral salts.
    [0011] The term "mineral" according to the present invention means that the salt comprises at most only one carbon atom, which includes carbonates. The water-soluble mineral salt or salts are preferably chosen from mono- or divalent metal salts, in particular alkali or alkaline earth salts, and ammonium salts, and in particular from sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium salts. The salts may be halides, in particular chlorides or sulphates or carbonates.
    [0012] Preferably, the mineral salt (s) are chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal chlorides. In particular mention may be made of sodium chloride, ammonium chloride and potassium chloride; more particularly the mineral salt is sodium chloride.
    [0013] The water-soluble mineral salt or salts according to the invention may represent from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more polyols, in particular one or more polyethylene glycols. The polyethylene glycol (s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 500 ethylene glycol units, and in particular from 40 to 200 ethylene glycol units.
    [0014] When they are present, said polyol (s), especially said polyethylene glycol (s) according to the invention, may represent from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and particularly from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0015] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more pH adjusters. The pH adjusters used according to the invention are preferably chosen from alkaline agents such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, or among acidifying agents such as for example organic acids. Acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, acid can be mentioned in particular as organic acid. phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid and citric acid. The pH of the composition used according to the invention is generally between 2 and 10, preferably between 3 and 8. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants. or cationic, as well as their mixtures. The nonionic surfactant (s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C 1 -C 20) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, the number of ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide may range in particular from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 1 to 30.
    [0016] Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, alkylpolyglycosides which may be oxyalkylenated, esters of alkylglucosides, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and N-acylmethylglucamine, and aldobionamides. oxyethylenated oils and amine oxides. Unless stated otherwise, for these surfactants, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes a compound comprising in its main chain at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms. The term "cationic surfactant" means a positively charged surfactant when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearylamidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine. As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: those having the following general formula III: ## STR5 ## in which groups R33 to R36, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R33 to R36 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens, the aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups. C30, C2-C30alkenyl (C1-C30) alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, (C1-C30) alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C1-C22) alkyl, and hydroxyalkyl Ci-C30; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phospha esters, acetates, lactates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylsulphonates. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula III, tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group is about 12 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred, in particular, behenyltrimethylammonium, diaryearldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, stearamidopropyldimethylcearylammonium salt. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of the following formula IV: R38 CH2 CH2 -N (R40) -CO-R37NNNV R39 (IV) in which R37 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 at 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R38 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R39 represents an alkyl group C1-C4, R40 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulphonates whose groups alkyl and aryl preferably comprise 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R 37 and R 38 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 39 denotes a methyl group and R 40 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; comprises, for example, di or quaternary triammonium salts, in particular of formula V: R 42 R 44 R 41 -N- (Cl-12) N-R 46 R 43 R 45 (V) in which R 41 denotes an alkyl radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R42 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R41a) (R42a) ) (R43a) N- (CH2) 3; R41a, R42a, R43a, R43, R44, R45 and R46, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula VI: ## STR2 ## Wherein: R47 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl C1-C6 groups R48 is selected from: 0 - the group R51 C-2+ 2X- - the groups R52 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 50 is chosen from: 0 - the R 53 group IIC - the R 54 groups which are C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, R49, R51 and R53, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups; or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R48 is R52 and that when z is 0 then R50 is R54. The alkyl groups R47 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R47 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 48 is a hydrocarbon group R 52, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    [0017] When R 50 is a hydrocarbon group R 54, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
    [0018] Advantageously, R49, R51 and R53, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 .
    [0019] The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. Ammonium salts of formula VI in which: R47 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, are used more particularly in the composition according to the invention; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R48 is selected from: - R5C- - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - hydrogen; R 50 is selected from: 0 - the group - the hydrogen atom; R53 IIC R49, R51 and R53, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from saturated linear or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; or unsaturated.
    [0020] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (XIII) such as the salts (especially chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl group, the latter groups may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
    [0021] It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A4137180. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that can be used according to the invention, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts. The composition may also comprise anionic surfactants and / or amphoteric surfactants; however, the surfactants are preferably nonionic or cationic. When present, the surfactants may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. and more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one solvent chosen from water, C 1 -C 8 alcoholic solvents, and mixtures thereof. The alcohol solvents C1-C8 are generally selected from alkanols, alkanediols, benzyl alcohol or phenylethyl alcohol. Preferably, the solvent or solvents are chosen from water and ethanol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water in an amount of 50 to 99% by weight, preferably 55 to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also further comprise at least one additive chosen from anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, natural and synthetic thickeners other than those mentioned above, suspending agents, sequestering agents, reducing agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof.
    [0022] Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amount so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The composition according to the invention may be in any of the possible forms for application to the hair, in particular in the form of a solution of the lotion or serum type, in the form of a gel, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water or multiple, liquid consistency more or less thick, such as milks and creams more or less creamy, or foams. The composition according to the invention may be a lotion, a gel, a mousse or a styling cream, a care cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, or a coloring composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a care cream and / or a conditioner to be rinsed or not. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is transparent or translucent, especially when it does not comprise opacifying compounds. Advantageously, it is in the form of a gel, aqueous or hydroalcoholic, especially translucent or transparent. Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which the cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said fibers. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. Preferably, it is not followed by a rinsing step.
    [0023] When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes.
    [0024] The application of the composition according to the invention to hair can be done on dry hair or wet hair. It can in particular be carried out after shampooing or after pretreatment at acidic or basic pH.
    [0025] Another subject of the invention relates to the use of the composition as described above, for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular for the conditioning and / or care of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, and in particular damaged hair, curly, dry or fine.
    [0026] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLES Example 1 The composition (A) according to the invention and the comparative composition (A ') are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in grams of active material. Ingredients Amount (in g) AA '3-aminopropylethoxysilane (Silsoft A-0.5 0.5 1100 from Momentive) Xanthan gum (Rhodicare CFT 0.45 0.45 Rhodia) Sodium chloride 0.5 - Polyethylene glycol ( 180 0E) 0.2 0.2 Lactic acid 0.32 0.32 Glycerol 5 2-phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Octane-1,2-diol 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated 1,2 1.2 (40 0E) Colored spheres (UNISPHERES NT-0.15 0.15 2302 LO Induchem) Fragrance 0.3 0.3 Deionized water 90.48 90.98 The compositions A and A 'can be obtained by solubilization silane in deionized water. This preparation is then left at room temperature for a period of 30 minutes, then the polysaccharide and the lactic acid are added to the preparation with constant stirring in order to homogenize the composition. In the case of composition A, the mineral salt is then added. The other compounds of the compositions are then added and the compositions A and A 'are thus obtained.
    [0027] The pH of the two compositions is about 4.9. Composition A is clear (transparent) and fluid, while composition A 'is fluid but translucent (whitish). They both have non-sticky textures to the touch. After one month of storage at 4 ° C., the comparative composition A 'forms a gel which is no longer translucent, has a cloudy appearance and is also very tacky to the touch. As for the composition according to the invention, it retains the same properties as at the origin, whether for transparency or viscosity; it remains fluid.
    [0028] One compares on half-head, Caucasian mid-length hair, both compositions. The hair is shampooed with a classic shampoo. The compositions are spread on half-heads at the rate of 2 g of composition per half-head. Then the hair is dried and blow dry in the usual way.
    [0029] The half-heads treated with the composition A according to the invention have an improved softness and smoothing to the touch compared to the comparative composition A 'which hangs more when one passes the fingers in the hair, more particularly on dry hair. The disentangling is also improved with the composition according to the invention. EXAMPLE 2 The composition B according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed in grams of active material. Ingredients Amount (in g) 3-aminopropylethoxysilane (Silsoft A-0.5 1100 from Momentive) Xanthan gum (Rhodicare CFT 0.4 Rhodia) Sodium chloride 0.5 Polyethylene glycol (180 0E) 0.2 Lactic acid 0 , 32 Glycerol 5 2-phenoxyethanol 0.7 Octane-1,2-diol 0,2 Hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated (40 0E) 26 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 0.04 Perfume Qs Deionized water Qs 100% The hair is shampooed with a shampoo classic. The composition is spread on a half-head at a rate of 2 g per half-head; the other half-head being treated with water. Then the hair is dried and blow dry in the usual way.
    [0030] Hair treated with the composition according to the invention has, unlike those treated only with water, a soft, clean and natural, non-dry appearance and non-greasy. In addition, they are easy to style. EXAMPLE 3 Compositions C to I according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed in grams of active material. Ingredients Quantity (in g) CDEF 3-aminopropylethoxysilane (Silsoft A-0.5 0.3 0.4 1 1100 Momentive) Xanthan Gum (Rhodicare CFT 0.05 - - - Rhodia) Corn Phosphate Phosphate - 0 , 5 - - hydroxypropyl pregelatinized Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5 - - - Modified starch of potato - - 0.6 - Starch acetate - - - 0.6 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyethylene glycol (180 0E) 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Lactic acid 0.32 0.32 0.32 0.32 Glycerol 5 5 5 5 2-phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0 , 7 Octane-1,2-diol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil 1,2 1,2 1,2 1,2 (40 0E) Fragrance Qs Qs Qs Qs Deionized water Qs Qsp Qsp Qsp 100 100 100 100 10 Ingredients Amount (in g) GHI 3-aminopropylethoxysilane (Silsoft A-0.5 0.5 0.5 1100 Momentive) Xanthan gum (Rhodicare CFT 0.5 0.5 0, 5 Rhodia) Zinc Gluconate 0.2 - - Sodium Benzoate - 0.2 - Calcium Chloride - - 0.3 Sodium Chloride 0.3 0.3 0.3 Polyethylene glycol (180 0E) 0.2 0, 2 0.2 Lactic acid 0.32 0.32 0.32 Glycerol 5 5 5 2-phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Octane-1,2-diol 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated castor oil oxyethylenated 1, 2 1,2 1,2 (40 0E) Perfume Qs Qs Qs Deionized water Qsp Qsp Qs 100 100 100 The compositions thus obtained remain storage stable: their texture and their clarity do not change over time (1 month).
    权利要求:
    Claims (15)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) one or more silanes corresponding to the following formula I and / or their oligomers: R 1 Si (OR 2) z (R 3). (OH) y (I) in which: R 1 is a C 1 -C hydrocarbon-based chain C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted with a group chosen from the groups: amine NH 2 or NHR, R being a C 1 -C 20 alkyl optionally substituted by a radical containing a silicon atom, a cycloalkyl C3-C40 or an aromatic C6-C30, - hydroxy, thiol, aryl or aryloxy substituted or unsubstituted; R1 may be interrupted by a heteroatom or a carbonyl group, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3, (b) one or more polysaccharides chosen from anionic, nonionic polysaccharides, and their mixtures, (c) one or more water-soluble mineral salts.
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silane or silanes are chosen from
    [0003]
    3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3 - (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxy silane, their oligomers and a mixture of these compounds, preferably from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, their oligomers and a mixture of these compounds, and in particular the silane is chosen from 3 aminopropyltriethoxysilane, its oligomers and a mixture of these compounds. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the silane or silanes are chosen from the following compounds of formula II: OR H 2 N (CH 2), Si-OR OR (II) in which the R groups, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 2 to
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said silane or silanes represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.4% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more polysaccharides are chosen from microbial gums, and in particular from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, Curdlar gums. , xanthan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllane gums, spirulinan gums and krestine gums.
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polysaccharide or polysaccharides are selected from glucans, starches modified or not, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polysaccharide (s) are chosen from microbial gums, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide or polysaccharides represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0% to 10% by weight. , 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more water-soluble mineral salts are chosen from mono- or divalent metal salts and ammonium salts, and in particular from sodium salts, potassium, magnesium and ammonium.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said mineral salt or salts represent from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and in particular of 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more polyols, in particular one or more polyethylene glycols.
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the said polyol (s) represent (s) from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of the composition varies from 2 to 10, and preferably from 3 to 8.
    [0014]
    14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that the cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims is applied to said fibers.
    [0015]
    15. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular for the packaging and / or care of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    JP2016537391A|2016-12-01|
    CN105722499A|2016-06-29|
    US20160354297A1|2016-12-08|
    FR3013592B1|2016-07-29|
    EP3073990A1|2016-10-05|
    WO2015075236A1|2015-05-28|
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    EP1532967A1|2003-11-18|2005-05-25|L'oreal|Cosmetic composition comprising gellan gum or a derivative thereof, a solid compound and an alcohol, processes using this composition and uses thereof|
    EP2213334A1|2009-01-30|2010-08-04|L'Oréal|Cosmetic composition comprising a specific alkoxysilane and an antibacterial gum; use of said composition for styling hair.|
    EP2266528A1|2009-04-30|2010-12-29|L'Oréal|Process for colouring and/or bleaching human hair using a composition comprising an amino trialkoxysilane or amino trialcenyloxysilane|
    FR2966356A1|2010-10-26|2012-04-27|Oreal|Cosmetic composition, useful for the cosmetic treatment of hair and as shampoo to facilitate disentangling of the hair, comprises alkoxysilane compounds having one or more fatty chain and other alkoxysilanes|
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    EP2073786A2|2006-09-15|2009-07-01|L'Oreal|Leave-in hair dyeing process using a composition comprising a coloured polymer and an active cosmetic agent|
    FR2976800B1|2011-06-23|2013-07-26|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND OF THE SILICON AND AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER|FR3040137B1|2015-08-17|2018-06-15|L'oreal|PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A NUCLEOPHILIC ALCOXYSILANE POLYMER AND AN ACTIVEESTER|
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    法律状态:
    2015-10-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2016-10-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2017-10-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2019-10-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2020-10-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    2021-11-09| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 9 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1361584A|FR3013592B1|2013-11-25|2013-11-25|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR SILANE, AT LEAST ONE ANIONIC AND / OR NON-IONIC POLYSACHARRIDE AND AT LEAST ONE WATER-SOLUBLE MINERAL SALT|FR1361584A| FR3013592B1|2013-11-25|2013-11-25|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR SILANE, AT LEAST ONE ANIONIC AND / OR NON-IONIC POLYSACHARRIDE AND AT LEAST ONE WATER-SOLUBLE MINERAL SALT|
    US15/038,837| US20160354297A1|2013-11-25|2014-11-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific silane, at least one anionic and/or non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble mineral salt|
    PCT/EP2014/075418| WO2015075236A1|2013-11-25|2014-11-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific silane, at least one anionic and/or non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble mineral salt|
    EP14802075.3A| EP3073990A1|2013-11-25|2014-11-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific silane, at least one anionic and/or non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble mineral salt|
    CN201480061530.5A| CN105722499A|2013-11-25|2014-11-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific silane, at least one anionic and/or non-ionic polysaccharide and at least one water-soluble mineral salt|
    JP2016533555A| JP2016537391A|2013-11-25|2014-11-24|Cosmetic composition comprising at least one specific silane, at least one anionic and / or nonionic polysaccharide, and at least one water-soluble inorganic salt|
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